The Hunter's Table
Chef Richard Blondin designed The Hunter’s Table for the home cook, so I approached it that way, asking myself how it would feel to prepare his recipes on a chilly fall Saturday while friends, the kind of good friends that a good fall day calls for, wander in and out of the kitchen.
My answer is this: This dinner does not require you to hustle. It comes together calmly, quickly, preferably with a glass of wine in hand, and yet it is rich with deep, autumnal flavors. The finished dishes may look like a lot of work, thanks to Richard’s impeccable technique, but the truth is in the short ingredient lists.
Each recipe has simple, strong flavors that thrill. The bacon-wrapped venison gives us sage and smoke, and the spätzle an actual pop of heat where other recipes are nothing but dough. And as for the apple tart, its blonde crown stands pristine, revealing nothing of the buttery, herbaceous compote waiting below. This is seasonal, ingredient-driven cooking at its best.