In Our Spring 2016 Issue

Last Updated March 01, 2016
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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

I look forward to spring cleaning. The busier I am, the more I crave order and simplicity. I love when spring arrives and I can open the windows, let a breeze flow through the house and watch the garden come alive—chives are first, then little leaves of mint sprout up, and by the time the tulips and daffodils arrive the party has begun. I start to serve salty butter and Easter egg radishes on toast points and my homemade ricotta and pea pasta appears. I want to gather friends and enjoy the sunshine.

At culinary school I learned how to mise-enplace,which literally means, “put in place.” We were taught to carefully prep our ingredients for the day in an orderly way—by measuring out everything we needed and lining it up on our sheet trays before we would begin to cook. I teach this same technique to home cooks at our cooking school. I think the idea of slowing down and concentrating on one thing at a time is a process that can be carried into other parts of our lives. How can we best get everything in its place, so our mind can be freed up to think, and our time can be freed up to concentrate on what is important?

We learn in this issue of Edible Columbusfrom the former editor of Edible Michiana, Maya Parson, about Ben Hartman, a small-scale farmer who also believed there had to be a better way to make his farm more lean, profitable and efficient, and reduce waste. He sought advice from a local manufacturing company, who was utilizing the Lean Model developed by a Toyota production system founder, Taiichi Ohno. The Lean Model has two goals: “eliminating waste, which can take the form of wasted time, materials or energy, and increasing value, by better identifying and prioritizing customers’ wants and needs.” Ben began applying this model on his small farm and the results were just what he hoped—a more profitable farm and more time to spend with family. We share his journey on page 47.

This spring we can all take a closer look at how we are spending our time. Can we be more efficient, plan ahead, organize differently in order to be more productive during our working our hours, in the hopes that our leisure hours increase? I hope you enjoy this issue of Edible Columbus,and you learn a tip or two that helps make your spring even more enjoyable!

-Tricia Wheeler, Publisher


LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Spring is beautiful. Undeniable. All the colors that emerge from the blank canvas of winter. All the birdsong that saturates the blossom-scented air. All the vegetables at the market for spring salads and gatherings with friends. It’s just bliss. And I like to think that all of the beauty arriving in the forests, rivers and backyards is really evidence of all the beauty inside of us. That the little fuchsia radishes could mirror some color and form deep within our spirit. That we are made of rainbows and clouds just like the Earth. We are springtime. I like to imagine this, yes, I do.

So in this issue of Edible Columbus, as we enter our seventh year of publishing, we bring you what is beautiful and true. Vegetables. Columbus’ Cara Mangini of Little Eater celebrates the arrival of her first book, The Vegetable Butcher. We share Cara’s story and her recipe for Braised Radishes on page 52. And in Milan, Ohio, at The Chef’s Garden there is a special place called The Culinary Vegetable Institute. Executive Chef Jamie Simpson is making eating your vegetables fun again, and you must visit (page 32). We offer other destinations in that part of Ohio to make a weekend trip of it (page 28).

The flavors of spring come forth in so many ways, so dig in. Kate Hodges of Foraged & Sown does exactly that year round, hunting for native plants and berries (page 44). Being able to forage for native plants is due, in part, to our pollinators, and our article on page 40 tells you how you can help preserve more plant life for the bees and the butterflies. If you’re looking to spend more time in the kitchen, recipe editor Sarah Lagrotteria gives us her recipe for Shallot Tarte Tartin (page 8) and The Seasoned Farmhouse Chef Joshua Wickham shows us how to make Lemon and Garlic Roasted Lamb (page 25). We’re also excited to share author Anna Thomas’ new cookbook, Vegan Vegetarian Omnivore: Dinner for Everyone at the Table as she looks at how to make meals inclusive of all eaters (page 23) and her recipe for Lemon Risotto with Sautéed Fresh Fava Beans. And we love Bryn Bird’s stories of what farm life is like for kids and how it changes their expectations about the world (page 18).

This year we’re asking harder questions about how local restaurants and institutions bring true farm-to-table food to you and how we, as eaters, hold them accountable to a higher standard of local fare. Read the first of our two-part article on this issue (page 57) and learn how you can take action to help strengthen the farmer to chef connection in Columbus. We’re also dedicating more page space to the relationship between health and food in our “Edible Wellness” section. We talk to Portia Yiamouyiannis of Portia’s Café about being a vegan (page 12) and Katie McKivergin of Organic GreenFix about the natural healing power of their smoothies (page 14). We also look at self-care for chefs and how they navigate wellness in the restaurant industry (page 16). And Warren Taylor of Snowville Creamery has been on the front lines in Washington demanding transparency in the new food labeling laws (page 20). Read what Warren calls “the biggest single and most contentious issue in American agriculture,” and learn how you can take action.

Our seventh year also marks a commitment to aesthetics and art, for the culinary arts is an art form like any other. We come to the table for what is pleasing to the eye, not just the belly. Our cover photo is the first in a year of still lifes guided by the season and history of the still-life tradition in painting (see page 10 for story). We had so much fun making something beautiful and full of presence for you to hold in your heart. Yes!

-Colleen Leonardi, Editor

Butter-Braised Radishes

Cara Mangini’s Braised Radishes from her new cookbook The Vegetable Butcher
These butter-braised radishes are the perfect spring side dish.

Shallot Tarte Tatin

shallot tarte tatin
Kitchen legend tells us that the classic apple tarte Tatin was made in error. The idea was to create a pie filling of softly cooked apples. Instead, the sugar caramelized while the cook was doing who...

Home Plate

a BBQ Pork Sandwich with Lucky Cat Bakery focaccia and pork from New Creations Farm and corn chips from Shagbark Seed and Mill, and an Early Winter Salad with braising mix greens from Clarfield Farm, apples from Cherry Orchards and butternut squash from Yoder Family Farm; and Black Bean Hummus with Shagbark Seed and Mill black beans and corn chips
Restaurants in Columbus, Ohio bring farm-to-table ingredients to your plate.

Springtime Lamb

lemon and garlic roasted leg of lamb ingredients
Lamb for spring. This delicate, nourishing meat is a celebration of the rebirth of the Earth when the greenest grasses rise and traditional...

The Vegetable Butcher

Cara Mangini of Little Eater
Little Eater’s Cara Mangini gives veggies a star turn: at her restaurant, at her grocery and in a new cookbook.

Just to Say: The Early American Still Life

Raphaelle Peale, “Blackberries" oil painting
We on the Edible Columbus editorial board love beauty, whether it’s a candy-striped beet, a heavy table linen or a painted plate. At our last meeting of 2015, we started thinking of a way to share...

Being Vegan with Portia Yiamouyiannis

We discuss Portia Yiamouyiannis' vegan-only restaurant, Portia's Cafe, what it means to eat healthy and mindfully.

Self-Care for Chefs

Behind every exquisite meal is the work of a chef that entails long hours, worn-out knees and the pressure to please ever-changing eaters and their taste buds. Here we discuss what self-care for chefs...

Kids Love Vegetables

Kids do love fresh food and vegetables and this farmer tells us about how her daughters ended up discovering and loving vegetables all on their own.

Real Food Freedom

America is very serious about the right to religious freedom. It’s time that we extend religious freedom to include the freedom of our belief systems regarding food.

Leaner, Greener, More Profitable and Productive

Clay Bottom Farm (Goshen, Indiana)
Between barn weddings, farm dinners, artisanal cheeses and heirloom produce, American farm life can seem downright romantic—at least for those of us who aren’t actually farmers. For those trying...

Lake Shore Adventures at Lake Erie

Lake erie, ohio map of shore
The land on the southern shores of Lake Erie has a fertile growing history and many culinary highlights to explore.

Seed Sovereignty: Preserving Ohio's Seed Heritage

different types of seeds on a cutting board
A regional seed company takes root in Athens to preserve southern Ohio’s seed heritage

A Philosophy of Vegetables with Chef Jamie Simpson

Executive chef and chef liaison to The Chef’s Garden Jamie Simpson
We explore the synergy and creativity between Chef Jamie Simpson and The Chef’s Garden at The Culinary Vegetable Institute.

Flower Fidelity: Ohio's Pollinators and What to Grow for Them in Your Garden

A prairie pollinator garden at DNR headquarters in Columbus
The diverse roles pollinators play create many different habitats for many species of plants and wildlife to thrive. Here's what the Ohio Pollinator Habitat Initiative is doing to keep the pollinators...

A Wild Spring: One Cook's Hunt for Morels, Ramps and More

FERN FIDDLEHEAD illustration
Foraging for wild ingredients can be intimidating and learning some basic plant identification is recommended. There are many resources available to get you started and the rewards are worth the...

Dig In: Foraged & Sown Celebrates Local Flavors from the Backyard to the Forest

Kate Hodges of Foraged & Sown
Kate Hodges forages for flavor. And for fun. And, of course, for food. But it’s the quest for flavor that’s the real driving force behind her business, Foraged & Sown, which launched just over a...

GreenFix Organics Offers Smoothies Made of Local and Organic Produce

Katie McKivergin, co-owner of Organic GreenFix
Katie McKivergin co-owns Organic GreenFix smoothie company with her parents, Lisa and Jim McKivergin. The family started business at the Granville Farmers Market in 2011, selling a unique blend of...

One Feast Fits All: Vegan, Vegetarian, Omnivore

dinner dishes for vegan, vegetarian and omnivores
Vegan, vegetarian, omnivore—here's how to throw a dinner party where everyone's welcome at this table.

Lemon Risotto with Sautéed Fresh Fava Beans

lemon risotto
Although the ingredients are simple, I think of this as a luxury dish: fresh fava beans are a seasonal delicacy, and shelling this many rates as an act of culinary devotion. The risotto is aromatic...

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